If only everyday was Friday
session 4
early morning Jetty
stoke 9
So another first time accomplishment was achieved on Friday--post-work session! Was also pretty easy, although had a little more traffic to mess with than I did on my early AM session the week before. But it was easy enough that I'll be doing it again...TODAY!
Going back to Friday: Woke up early and got to work around 7.30 or so, was able to get out of here a little after 4. On the way up caught a little bit of traffic on 101 and quite a bit on 92, so was at the Jetty in HMB by about 5.15 or so. Still enough time to have some fun. On the ride over, I noticed an interesting smell coming from somewhere on the road...switched lanes and saw the car in front of me had their windows rolled down and 3 guys were passing around a joint. on the middle of the freeway. NOT afraid. sure was aromatic! i looked at them and they nodded. then I looked at the clock, and it was 4.20, on the dot. just like the movie "Friday."
Anyways surf was fine for me, got even better at the end of the session, as it seems to always do. I'm trying to remember what exactly happened, if there was anything of note, and I'm not remembering anything, which probably means there wasn't...just a lot of the same me paddling around, not catching a lot of waves, being in the wrong spot on the ones I do catch, and maybe wiping out a time or 2. But I should give myself a little credit, it's not like I'm awful, I have some sense of what I'm doing out there. What really trips me up is the crowds...I'm not stable enough on my shortboard yet to feel confident going for a wave that other people are also going for...I don't want to crash and send my board or other body part flying towards them out of control. So I tend to be pretty cautious, and go for waves that others aren't going for, which often times mean i go for waves that I shouldn't go for, and get closed out or am too deep and just get tossed around like a little ragdoll. Tonight--that all changes! I'm CHARGING! ha, maybe not.
One final note--on these late sessions, be sure to remember where I put my keys...it took me maybe 10 minutes or so to find them in the dark. and I was already running late. Wound up driving all the way back to Mt View to Snoodle's house in my wet wetsuit and booties, and running into her apartment complex wearing just that and carrying my board...must have looked pretty funny...here comes AQUAMAN!
That's all for now. I went out on Saturday also but didn't really get much. Was a pretty lazy session, so hardly anything to write about honestly. At least I was able to find my keys. I guess one thing worth noting is to probably advise not getting the onion rings at that mexican restaurant, we went there again and I ate far too many onion rings, which were basically fried greaserings with a small onion string wallowing around somewhere amongst the grease...tasted pretty good at the time because I was really hungry but about 30 minutes later that had all changed. Oh, and also, the Hawaiian grill place right south of the jetty is really expensive. probably pretty damn tasty, but for those prices, I'll just fly to Hawaii instead, thank you.
see ya!

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